The Hungarian language is notoriously difficult. Still, the taxi drivers understand...
Instead of starting at the Nation Museum, we begin with the National War Museum.
Hungary sided with Germany in both world wars. After losing in WWI, Hungary adopted a Red regime, was invaded, and lost Transylvania to Romania. The Nazis got it back for them. When Germany began to lose WWII, Hungary tried to make a deal with the allies. Hitler got wind of this, deposed the Hungarian Government, and put the local fascists in charge. When the Russians invaded, 70% of Budapest was destroyed. Familiar history to our generation: The Russians stayed and Hungary came under Communist Rule. After unsuccessful revolutions in 1956 and 1968, the communist regimes all collapsed in the period following 1989.
We proceeded past this tower, all that remains of the Lutheran Church.
This is the roof of the National Archives.
Jews were relatively well-tolerated during the Ottoman occupation of Hungary, 1541-1682. A very small synagogue on Castle Hill was exposed by archaeologists during the 1990s. One of two pictographs were fond on the ceiling. The text is from Numbers 6:24-26.
We spent some time at The Koller Art Gallery and, on impulse, purchased three prints of Istvan Osros: Library I, Library II, and Durer im Wald. The artist's works, inclding these, can be viewed at www.kollergalia.hu
We had pastries and coffee at the famous Russwurm cafe. Thence to St. Matthias Cathedral. This is a Hungarian national chirch, quite new (circa 1904), and hard to describe or photograph. It is painted everywhere, with a lot of gold. Most of the painting was simply decorative and not programmatic.
The stained glass is in new condition and uniform thickness.
The carving outside is very elaborate.
We skipped dinner.
Friday, Oct. 10
Our hotel is new, built into an old building in 2006. The breakfast is far above par.
We spent the day at the National Art Gallery.
Hungary converted to Christianity around 950. The medieval items have a certain, distinguishing Hungarian cast.
Plump dragon:
Happy lion-fish:
Madonna and Child:
Ferencz Karoly dominates the Hungarian impressionist collection. Bruce liked thus double portrait of his sisters.
Most interesting were the communist era paintings, especially those after the 1956 revolution but before the 1989 liberation.
Csernas Tibor led the surnaturalist school. This one is Angyalfold (1958-59):
The artitists' responses to the demands of Social Realism were, initially, timid. Here's Boilmakers (1951) by Milhaltz Pals.
Stalin would not have allowed these:
Bartha Laslo, Calcination Plant (1959):
Kubikos, Pick and Shovel Man (1965).
These artists and their works are unknown to us, but should provide much enjoyment in the future, There were few private patrons and artists relied on state sponsorship. The products were often not displayed. The Museum has thousands in storage. (Cf. our WPA art program and the Dutch post-war accumulations).
We had lunch (foie gras and a meat pancake) and late drinks on a terrace cafe with this view of Parliament.
Junk food dinner in the hotel room.
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