Georgia 3

Saturday May 10

Long ride to Gareja Monastery.  St David (not David the Builder) was a Syrian monk of the 6th century who came to Tbilisi to instruct the Georgians.  He, with two others, left Tbilisi and went to live in a cave.  Eventually, the caves became a monastery and they carved many rooms from the stone. It continues as a monastery. By the 13th Century, there were 14 monasteries in the area.  On Easter, in 1615, we are told that the 600 monks were celebrating, each with a candle. The Persians, on the other side of the mountain, saw the light, came to investigate, rounded up the monks and beheaded them.  The monastery was attacked many times and always repopulated.  The communist regime used the monastery's territory as a training ground for their Afghanistan war and there was some damage to the murals during that time.  It is an active monastery today so major parts are off limits to tourists.

 

 

 

On the way to the monastery, we saw mixed flocks (herds?) of sheep, goats, and cattle being herded to their summer pasture in the mountains.  The herders were on foot and horseback with their supplies packed on donkeys.  They were accompanied by dogs, but we did not notice them actively herding.  Theses are professional herders who take up the animals of local farmers.
 

 

Tonight was the celebratory leaving Georgia meal.  It was led in Georgian style by a toastmaster (tamada) and a quartet sang Georgian songs to match the toasts.  The style is polyphonic.  We had the usual tomato cuke  salad, chicken salad, three cheeses, three walnut and greens dishes, meat stuffed grape leaves, chicken in garlic sauce, beef and pork kebabs and mixed fruit.  We are hoping that the leftovers make it to the poor.

A note on Georgian churches.

The Soviets closed most of the churches, repurposing them.  With the collapse, the churches were cleaned up, priests came out of the woodwork and worship was revitalized.  The churches are attended, respect is shown, headscarves are worn.  As an Orthodox church, it has an iconostasis, a screen in front of the altar, blocking the view of the congregation.  It is full of icons which are revered and kissed by the worshippers.  There are few seats.  Congregants stand around the edges.   
A note on Georgian history.
We have presented historical matters as they were related to us.  Much is based on unverified legend.  Georgia is in a perilous situation.  For Georgians, history is a potent tool in a zero-sum game.  The narrative is still being composed and is far from complete.  It has been  interesting watching this history being developed.